Review of "Travels with Myself and Another" by Martha Gellhorn

Martha Gellhorn made her reputation as a war correspondent, but most of this book (compiled, I think, from previously published essays) is about all the other stuff that happens around the edge of the fighting. The first long section takes around China during the war between the Japanese and various Chinese forces, and it's brilliantly evocative of the misery of travel - the damp, the dirt, the waiting...

And then she's in the Caribbean, sailing between islands to try to find German U-boats...which she doesn't find at all, but she does encounter lots of other stuff - racists, expats of various nationalities and persuasions, some American air force people. 

It's not all war time. She goes to French West Africa as it transitions to phoney independence, and she writes about the racism of the French residents but also her own racism, and in particular the visceral, unwelcome physical reaction she has to the smell and the appearance of some (but not all) Africans. 

There's lots more - her attempt to go on a safari with a guide who is a Kikuyu gay Presbyterian "driver" who can't really drive and doesn't know the country at all is brilliant.

Really enjoyable read.